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Family Jewels West
Whitefish Mountain Resort, Montana
By Kevin Hjertaas
Looking for an international ski experience that only takes a weekend? If so, pack your passport and get ready for the border guards: you're going to Whitefish, Montana.
Whitefish is 60 miles (97 kilometres) from the Roosville border crossing (near Fernie, BC). Up until a few years ago you could make the drive with open liquor in hand and no speed limit. The laws have changed, but, thankfully, Montana maintains its renegade feel. As you cruise down Friday night, dive into local culture by listening to the right-wing, antiestablishment radio hosts who complain Bush is too progressive and centralist for Montanan's tastes. When you arrive, continue the cultural tour by stopping at Casey's Pub for a taste of old-school Montana; better order a Budweiser and drop the Canadian accent before you get your ass kicked.
What used to be called Big Mountain has been retitled Whitefish Mountain Resort. It's a good change. Previously, many people got it confused with Big Sky Mountain. Plus the mountain really isn't that big. But with over 3,000 acres and 93 marked runs, it is a big resort. Your best move is to tail one of the friendly locals to find the link-ups from stash to stash. If this fails, just enjoy discovering the nooks and crannies as you go. With so many micro-features and over 760 centimetres of annual snow, it's a good bet you'll find powder somewhere.
Your weekend will start off with fresh snow ('cause you're a lucky kind of guy), so jump on the Glacier Chaser chairlift and rip freshies on Big Face. Once warmed up and confident, start exploring the East Rim area for some steeps and cliff drops. By the end of the day, you'll want to traverse out to the Hellroaring Basin for hidden, untracked turns.
When the lifts stop, ski up to the Beerstube for apres. Back in the '90s, when 40 per cent of the skier visits here were Canucks, this place was know as a Canadian bar. Don't drink too much, though; you want to make the most of your low-budget international ski trip. After a few, put your boots back on and get out there for night skiing. The park is lit up and has the standard two large tables, one hip, halfpipe and a collection of rails.
Booking a place to stay here is easy. Bigmtn.com is central reservations for all on-hill accommodations and offers hostel-like rooms all the way up to‚ well, more than you can afford.
When you wake up Sunday, grab a coffee and bagel at the Big Drift Coffee Shop on your way to the lifts. If the main runs are tracked out, or if you're looking for some adventure on your second day, head up the Lodi T-bar (open on weekends) and take the 15-minute hike through the gate and up to the Canyon Creek area. From here, numerous north-facing lines hold snow well after a storm. Stopping for lunch at the Summit House, you might think you've crossed the border back into British Columbia. A line of lunching Canadian snowmobilers will be parked out front, and the Canadian flag will be flying beside its American counterpart. Don't get too comfortable, though. You have more skiing to do.
When you finally finish your day, make the 12-minute drive downtown for dinner at Pescado Blanco. You're one border closer, and the quality of Mexican food is that much better. A crazy combination of Mexican and Montanan organic cuisine, including bison and pheasant enchiladas, will refuel your empty stomach. They don't serve booze, though, so remember to BYOB.
Driving through cowboy country on the way home, don't be tempted by BBQ Rick's. While the sign out front reads, "Hunters Welcome," that usually means, "Freaky-Deaky Snow Sliders Not Welcome!" Instead, grab your final foreign snack at one of the gas stations or casinos. They're just glorified VLTs, but plug in enough quarters and you may even pay for your trip ('cause you're a lucky kind of guy).
Your entry into Canada should be the easiest part of the trip. While the U.S. may strip-search you for drugs, shoe bombs or free-thinking, the Canadian border guards just want to know if you have any fruit or guns. Hide the guns; declare the fruit. Oh, it's always good to come home after traveling the world.
DNA: Whitefish, Montana
Vertical: 717 m
Terrain: 20% beginner, 50% intermediate, 30% advanced-expert
Snowfall: 762 cm
Lifts: Three high-speed quads, one quad chairlift, five triple chairs, three T-bars
Adult day ticket: $54
Info: bigmtn.com
Wow, that's a big mountain. What's it called again? Schott photo
