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Ski Cape Smokey, Nova Scotia
Ski Cape Smokey is Nova Scotia’s answer to a mountain ski resort: it’s isolated, uncrowded and absurdly cheap. The breathtaking ocean views from the top of Cape Smokey make it seem like you could ski right past the lodge and into the Atlantic Ocean. If the weather is on your side, you’ll arrive to find an undiscovered gem of ungroomed powder trails. If your karma’s not so good, you might arrive to a windy, rainy mess of a mountain and you’ll understand why Smokey is still undiscovered.
The last time I tempted fate with a trip to Cape Smokey, located in Ingonish Beach at the start of the Cape Breton Highlands National Park, I hitched a ride with two New Yorkers. Sipping Jack Daniels and passing a pipe, we made the climb from Wreck Cove to the top of Cape Smokey, marveling at switchback turns and increasingly steep cliffs.
There are no busses or shuttles that will brave the repeated trips up Cape Smokey, so a dependable ride is a necessity. If you’re flying in, you can pick one up at the Halifax International Airport. From there it’s a five-hour drive. You can also fly into the Sydney Airport. Sydney, the closest major centre to Ski Cape Smokey, is located 90 minutes from the base of the mountain.
At the base you’re sandwiched between the Atlantic Ocean and 16 trails rising toward the peak. Three hundred sixty-five metres of vertical elevation make Cape Smokey Nova Scotia’s highest ski destination. Half the trails are geared toward an intermediate skier. There are also five advanced trails and three beginner trails for the kiddies or that dude you brought along who can’t ski. The trails are serviced by two chairlifts, and there is rarely much of a line.
Locals say, under the right conditions, the best trails are the ones left ungroomed at the far right and left of the mountain. When the snow’s coming down, that’s where you’ll find the fresh powder. When the snow’s not so consistent, these trails turn into challenging, natural moguls. There are also whispers that some of the most fun and challenging runs Cape Smokey has to offer aren’t marked on any map. Cape Bretoners are famous for their hospitality, so buddy up with a local and follow him into the trees.
If you make it out and you’re looking for food, drink and a place to crash, there are a handful of options in the immediate area. The resort offers a bar and cafeteria. A drive into Ingonish Beach offers a few restaurants and a small grocery store. If you’re looking for a party, you’ll have to head back into Sydney. There’s Casino Nova Scotia Sydney, if you’re feeling lucky. Or if you’re looking to get lucky, there’s Smooth Herman’s Nightclub and Lounge.
If you plan to spend a couple days skiing Cape Smokey, you can book through the resort’s website (turn up the volume, too; the Cape Smokey tune is amazing). Two days of skiing and one night’s lodging at your choice of five local accommodations costs only $90 per person. The accommodations offer something for every preference, from the posh Keltic Lodge to the rustic Wreck Cove Wilderness Cabins.
But here’s the rub: While Cape Smokey is affordable, filled with character and—under the right conditions—a unique ski experience, it’s unpredictable when it comes to weather. The season runs December to March, and at any time in that window the hill could be a powdery dream or a windy, wet mess. So if you’re booking a vacation months in advance, skip Cape Smokey. But if you find yourself looking for an affordable, last-minute ski trip to a beautiful resort brimming with character, call up Cape Smokey. And if there’s snow, then go. —Ken MacIntosh
DNA
Ski Cape Smokey, NS
Summit elevation: 365 metres
Vertical: 300 metres
Terrain: 16 named trails; 20% novice, 50% intermediate, 30% advanced/expert
Snowfall: 380 cm
Lifts: 2
Adult ticket: $25
Season: December to March
Info: skicapesmokey.com; (902) 285-2760
Ski Cape Smokey photo
