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Family Jewels
Brokeback Mountain Ski Area, Buttock, Wyoming
Loose boundaries and tight chutes
When skiers think of Wyoming, they think of Jackson’s Hole. This legendary stallion has hogged the riding spotlight for so long that few skiers have ever heard of the dozen or so smaller wranglers shamefully hidden in Wyoming’s ski area closet. While many of Wyoming’s skiers struggle to deal with the changes wrought by the traditional partnerships of corporate ownership and homogenization, an open-minded minority has begun to search out new experiences. This is where Brokeback Mountain Ski Area shines with all the intensity of a Castro Street disco.
Located in the middle of butt-hole nowhere in Northern Wyoming, Brokeback Mountain has been providing skiers from the nearby rodeo community of Buttock with an alternative since 1963, and perennially has a small contingent of hardcore riders screaming hallelujah! (and sometimes Y-M-C-A!). Like most ski hills in the Rockies, Brokeback is mostly about alpine terrain. While beginners may find the initiation challenging (some might even say painful), experts will slide comfortably into most of the varied terrain that Brokeback offers. There’s something for every taste here; you can drop rock-hard cliffs between smooth, rounded steeps, ride wide-open bowls, or get a handle on some of the stiffest tree-skiing outside of Aspen. The quickest way to the goods is up Uranus, an ultra-slow double chair that services mainly intermediate terrain. Be sure to take your time because adventure abounds in Brokeback’s secluded tree runs. For leisurely, anonymous skiing, try the classic “Cruise N’ the Woods.” If exhibitionism is your thing, the “Dirty Barrel” terrain park, located directly beneath the lift-line, is the place to demonstrate just how well you can ride pipe.
If you prefer things a little more rough n’ tumble, head skier’s right from the On Top daylodge to sample “8-Seconds,” a steep, uninterrupted fall line pitch, where you can pound bumps and get out all of your aggression. Finish up on “Over the Rainbow,” a celebrated and well-manicured groomer that’s consistently rated one of the continent’s best-dressed runs.
Once you’ve loosened up a bit and feel ready to take on a big one, grab the Howdy Partner chair to “Jack’s Notch,” a north-facing collection of chutes and cliffs accessed after a rigorous, sweaty, but thoroughly enjoyable 14-minute bootpack. Don’t get sucked off the trail by it’s many minor diversions. If you can’t get enough of the hard stuff, there are two test-pieces off the Pet Shop chair that will challenge even the most dominant skiers: “Ramrod” and “Glory Hole.” Steep, dangerous and more exposed than George Michael in a public restroom, these runs demand respect and settle for nothing less than your total submission. In general, however, this type of terrain is best left to experts, and beginners should stick to flirting with the smaller stuff: From the top of Pony Up chair, the more tentative can try “Easy Rider,” a non-judgmental powder run where faceshots are plentiful and there’s always another skier to trade backslaps with.
At Brokeback, getting it up for both pre-près and après is as important as going down, and it shows in village amenities. For a bite to eat or a strong local brew, enter the Cowpoke Saloon, a western-style bar in the On Bottom daylodge. Don’t pass on the house-brand Belt-Buckle Whiskey—it’s a rite of passage for rookie cowpokes. After a fabulous dinner and a few shots of liquid courage, you’re ready for the Two-Step, a busy dance-bar in the Dude Ranch Lodge. Always packed, you can dance the night away with other sweaty ski bums; later, practice rodeo skills on the mechanical bull or in the bathroom. Don’t be afraid to take your shirt off and dance on the bar—the bouncers might even join you!
Stepping out of Wyoming’s ski-closet isn’t an easy thing to do, and Brokeback still has a long way to go before its accepted into the mainstream. But spend one night on the dance floor at the Two-Step and you’ll see a flamboyant enthusiasm for the ski lifestyle that can’t be matched even in the tight chutes of Jackson’s Hole. —Jack Twist
DNA:Brokeback Mountain Ski Area, Buttock, Wyoming
Summit Elevation: 2984 m
Vertical: 717 m
Terrain: 17 Runs; mix: 25% In the Closet, 50% Just Curious, 25% Loud and Proud
Snowfall: 425 cm
Lifts: 6 Double chairs, 1 T-Bar
Adult Ticket: $35 U.S.
Season: December - April
Contact: skibrokeback.com, 1-800-555-5555
